Oases are clearly visible from afar, announced by large palm groves. In the middle of desert-like areas, they herald the abundance of water. It comes from either mountain / underground springs or Wadis and turns the otherwise dry areas into lush gardens. Inside this maze of trees and under their leafy umbrella, all you hear is water gurgling, gushing & rushing. A sophisticated system of channels, called Alfaj, distributes the water among all families and their gardens. And this is meant literally: Falaj, the singular form, means in Arabic “to distribute justly”. Continue Reading →
Archive | Oman
Omani Cuisine – Indian Run
We did not really know what to expect. The last thing we had hoped for were the absolutely delicious fruit juices: mango, avocado, kiwi, pineapple, pomegranate… Can’t make up your mind? Have a fruit cocktail! It comes in colorful layers and is addictive. Continue Reading →
Nizwa – The Perfect Base
Nizwa is the perfect base. The fortresses of Jebreen, Bahla, Nizwa and numerous oases wait to be visited. We interrupted our tour of the oases around Nizwa only to get out of the worst heat of the day. Our first choice to do so, Al Hotta Caves, were closed for maintenance. The other option was the museum inside Nizwa Fort with is great display of clothes, tools, household equipment, jewelry, coins and simple furniture. Continue Reading →
The Friendliness Gene
Three adjectives to describe Omani? Friendly, tolerant and not pushy! Evolution must have been especially generous towards the people in this area of the Arabic Peninsula. Only being equipped with extra large portions of politeness and tolerance genes could have made the Omani such relaxed, friendly and open-minded people. Continue Reading →
Bahla – Mud Fortress
Taking a wrong turn can be rewarding. In our case it took us straight to the gigantic Fortress of Bahla, Oman’s oldest Fort. Its renovation has been going for decades, since only hand made clay bricks are used, to get as close to the original as possible. Despite such immense efforts to make it look authentic, it comes across a bit too neat, like most castles in Oman. Continue Reading →
Tombs Of Al Ayn – The Journey Was The Reward
You would expect a minimum of protection for tombs built 3000 BC, in prehistory times, during the Bronze Age, wouldn’t you? Well, not even as much as a fence there was! We are talking about structures that are older than the Great Pyramids… You might also expect at least a sign, helping the clueless tourist find its way there. Well, there is simply none! We could see the tombs in the distance, neatly lined up on the ridge of a small hill, but found no access road, not even after an elderly man pointed in a direction. Continue Reading →
Wadi Ghul
The “Grand Canyon” Of Oman’s Alps
Cold it was up there when we finally pulled into Jebel Shams Resort, at almost 2.000 meters above sea level. For 150 € (half board) the large room was very cozy and warm, but the restaurant reminded more of a cheap buffet of a high-school cafeteria. From our room we could see the lights of the military base high up on top of Jebel Shams. We were not envying the soldiers up in their chilly barracks. Guarding what? Continue Reading →
Oman’s Death Road
This dusty, windy, steep and narrow road across the Hajer Mountains brought back great memories – biking down Bolivia’s “Death Road” (La Carratera de la Muerte) from La Paz to Coroico in 2007. Equally picturesque, but biking this road we would never consider! The incline was sometimes so steep that we could see nothing but the hood of our car. We could only hope that we were not going over a cliff or run head on into a car. Wannabe daredevils as we are, we had saved the 300 Euros for renting a GPS. It showed as soon as we headed straight into the mountains from the coastal road: immediately after the tarred road ended, we got lost. Continue Reading →
Nakhal And Rustaq
The fortress of Nakhal was the perfect start for our “fortress hoping” in Oman. Its hilltop location makes it the perfect photo opportunity, probably the best of all Omani fortresses and we should know – we visited eight out the 500 in total! Sitting majestically on a small hill is one thing, but this superbly renovated fortress brings its past back to life. Rooms full of old furniture and tools put the visitors hundreds of years back in time. Construction started in the 9th century, but extensions and renovation only ended in 1990. Continue Reading →
Muscat – The Myth
Are we in Muscat? We kept asking ourselves repeatedly while gliding along on the palm tree-lined highway. It seemed an endless journey along neat buildings without ever getting to a center. Why the confusion? Muscat is basically a 40-kilometer longish stretch along the coast, including smaller and bigger towns. Continue Reading →