A tiny boat stirred by Captain Nelson navigated us slowly and gently up the Victoria Nile, heading to Murchison Falls. A bit of wildlife wandered along the banks, but otherwise it was the smooth ride and the witty co-passengers that made the trip special.
Near the narrow gap, where the Nile forces its way through the rocks, our boat stopped midstream, giving us a few minutes to click away. The gushing waterfall was announced by small foamy chunks floating downstream. Informed passengers explained that these “white horses” are caused by the immense pressure the water is exposed to.
The easiest way to see the top of the falls would be to leave the boat right there and hike up a short path. But you would need to find another boat taking you back, so most people drive there. From atop, the view of the falls is much more spectacular. The narrow passage makes the water gush up so high that it comes down vertically like a drizzle.
Before Owen Dam was built downriver in 1947, the level of water was much higher, covering most what is now the surrounding grassland. Two deserted pillars remind of a bridge that rested on them for exactly three months. Then it was washed away. The already stunning view was made even extravagant by two rainbows arching down into the gorge. Only the two of us shared that view: not a single person was anywhere near.