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Gondar – Ancient Capital Of Ethiopia Versus Modern Times

Fasilida's Casstle, Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, Gonder, Ethiopia

Fasilida’s Casstle, Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, Gonder, Ethiopia

Modern day Gondar we found a city of extremes – modern urbanites lives in stark contrast with those just surviving in heart breaking poverty. Every evening, the bar of our hotel was packed with cheerful locals eating well and guzzling down beer after beer. Outside, old men hid from the chilly nights under pieces of corrugated iron. Continue Reading →

Blue Nile Under Military Rule

The Source of the Blue Nile at Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The Source of the Blue Nile at Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The Blue Nile gently carried our small boat through its outlet from Lake Tana. Indeed a moving experience. We imagined weary explorers worn down by malaria and exhausted by their rough journey, finally reaching the very place people have fantasized about for thousands of years… Continue Reading →

Monastery Crawl On Lake Tana

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

These 16th and 17th century monasteries do not look like anything we expect a monastery to look like. First of all, they are circular building. Straw maps shield the walkway that circles the very church. The top of the roof is adorned with a heavy iron cross, often decorated with ostrich eggs. The inside of these monasteries are decorated with the most spectacular colorful wall paintings, telling the story of the bible and many more legends. Continue Reading →

Ancient Monasteries Saying Farewell To The Blue Nile

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The picturesque town of Bahir Dar is the gateway to over 40 ancient monasteries that dot the shores and islands of Lake Tana. It is also the source of the Blue Nile, which fascinated ancient Egyptians and modern day explorers alike. Even 21st century tourists are still drawn in by the romanticizing tales and exotic flair. Continue Reading →

Leaving Vienna For The Hadj

Lake Tana & Bahir Dar from a Plane, Ethiopia

Lake Tana & Bahir Dar from a Plane, Ethiopia

The always extremely busy Turkish Airlines check-in at Vienna Airport underwent its ultimate test. A large group of pilgrims was heading for Jeddah. Putting this behind, we soon were in for new cultural experience. The restroom at the gate was packed with mostly elderly pilgrims. Skillfully, they lifted their feet into the washbasin, giving them a good scrub. Weirdly, none of this could be observed during our five hour stop over at Istanbul Airport. Continue Reading →

Ethiopia: Danakil Depression – A Selection Of 26 Pictures

Crater of the most active volcano in Africa with a permanent lava lake, Erta Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

An expedition of 6 days through the hottest spot on this planet – The lava lake of Erta Ale, one of the most active volcanoes on this planet; Dallol, a landscape of multi-colored hot springs and bizarre formations reminding of a coral reef; Endless caravans soundlessly leaving the village of Hamed Ale at the crack of dawn and trotting back late afternoon loaded with salt; The salt mine near Lake Asal and the very harsh working conditions of the Afars and Tigrians; Lake Asal’s vast salt plain with its surrounding rock formation – Here you find a selection of 26 pictures from Ethiopia (Danakil Depression) Continue Reading →

Two Excellent But Very Different Tour Operators In Ethiopia

Our Group...

Our Group…

A few places and highlights in Ethiopia are difficult or time consuming to be travelled independently. This is definitely true for the Omo Valley and the Danakil Depression, both areas we visited over Christmas 2010. To get around the Omo Valley would have taken us several weeks travelling on the infrequent public busses. The Danakil simply cannot be visited without a tour operator, unless you have the survival skills of a local Afar and know how to extract the permits from local policemen. Continue Reading →

6 Days In The Danakil Depression

Crater of the most active volcano in Africa with a permanent lava lake, Erta Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

Crater of the most active volcano in Africa with a permanent lava lake, Erta Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

We had actually never heard of the Danakil Depression before we started reading the Lonely Planet, the Bradt Guide and the Thorn Tree Forum on Ethiopia. Either there was very little information (one single page in the Lonely Planet) or a focus on how expensive and difficult it was to travel there. The latter category was simply tempting us and off we went to the hottest place on earth. And believe us, it term is not some kind of marketing slogan! Continue Reading →

Awash National Park

Soemmerring's Gazelle (Nanger soemmerringii; formerly Gazella soemmerringii), Awash National Park, Ethiopia

Soemmerring’s Gazelle (Nanger soemmerringii; formerly Gazella soemmerringii), Awash National Park, Ethiopia

Awash National Park is about midway between Addis Abeba and the edge of the Danakil Depression. That is why most tour operators stop here and so add an attraction to their Danakil itinerary. To be honest, there is not much to see: a few monkeys, crocodiles and if you are lucky one long horned animal. Continue Reading →

Lake Afdera On Ethiopia’s Best Road

Public bus, near the Awash National Park, Ethiopia

Public bus, near the Awash National Park, Ethiopia

Our senses sharpened after a while and we identified Afdera as what it is. A shantytown that exists for one reason only: to host the many businesses and migrant workers that flocked here recently to earn money in the salt industry. Lake Afdera is the second largest lake with salt water in the Afar region. Continue Reading →