Low Expectations, Lovely Surprise: Two Days in Singapore With Kids

Singapore was a destination in its own right for us. In fact, having friends who are expats there is part of what drew us to this corner of the world in the first place – so it was anything but an afterthought. It also happens to be an excellent air hub, which helps you find flights that aren’t too expensive. We had never been, and I honestly didn’t know what to expect, so my expectations were fairly low. They turned out to be two genuinely nice days.

First impressions

It starts at the airport. Changi is, clearly, the best airport in the world. Immigration had never been so smooth – one and a half staff members were on hand just to help our three kids scan their own passports – and the whole place is clean, beautiful and efficient. The kind of airport you wish existed everywhere.

The city lives up to its reputation as one of the cleanest, best-organized and safest around. What surprised me was how green and spread out it is: wide avenues, parks, trees and flowers everywhere, and a subway that simply works.

The catch is the climate. It’s hot and stickily humid, which is a real challenge with children. The pool at our hotel turned out to be the solution: we settled into a rhythm of sightseeing first, swimming pool as the reward afterwards. It kept everyone going.

Singapore is also expensive, especially for accommodation. Food is pricey by Asian standards, though the hawker centres are still cheap compared to Europe. Getting around is easy if you mix the MRT with Grab. Credit cards work almost everywhere, but keep some cash on you if you want to buy fruit at a market or eat at the less touristy food centres.

Our itinerary: three nights, two days

With only three nights and two full days, we had to make choices.

We arrived in the late afternoon, so the first evening was simple: pool for the kids, then a walk through the city and dinner at Lau Pa Sat. It was a very pleasant introduction – huge choice, and busy with visitors and locals alike.

Day one – Chinatown and the East Coast

In the morning we explored Chinatown with our friends, and having people who know Singapore well made all the difference: we came away with a real feel for the country, its culture and the temples, rather than just walking past them. We took in three temples back to back – the Sri Mariamman Temple, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and the Thian Hock Keng Temple. One story in particular delighted the kids: the legend of the great race that set the order of the twelve zodiac animals, in which the rat came first by hitching a ride and leaping ahead at the last moment. Our twins were born in the Year of the Rat, so that one landed perfectly. Just as interesting was wandering the streets and feeling the contrasts – the high-rises of the Financial District, the low shophouses of the historic quarters, and the more suburban stretches we saw later in the evening. Lunch was in the basement of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, and it was excellent. In the afternoon we walked the East Coast along the beach – not a spot for swimming, with all the boats coming and going from the harbour, but a good stretch of air. The day ended with a pool party at our friends’ place out in suburban Singapore: large modern complexes with their own pools, and honestly a really pleasant side of the city to see.

Day two – Little India and Marina Bay

Little India is where Singapore’s contrasts come out most clearly: the slightly chaotic, Indian-style bazaars set against the usual Singaporean order and strictness. There’s a taste of India in everything here – the textile and other shops, the food, the way people move and interact. We followed the Lonely Planet walking route, which was genuinely good, but it involved long stretches partly in full sun, which was hard on the kids. So we went back to the hotel for a well-earned splash in the pool to cool down before heading out again. In the evening we made for Clarke Quay and walked along Singapore’s old harbour – now lined entirely with fashionable cafés and restaurants – then on to the Merlion and Marina Bay Sands. From the vast shopping centre there’s a small path that cuts through the hotel to Gardens by the Bay, where we finished the day with the Garden Rhapsody light show. Futuristic and genuinely beautiful – pretty much exactly the evening we’d hoped for.

A few practical notes

Some things need to be planned ahead. You can go up to the top of certain buildings for free, but reservations have to be made well in advance, so it’s worth sorting before you arrive. The heat and humidity are not to be underestimated – they were a challenge for us and for the children alike, and they shaped how we paced each day. And when it came time to leave for Melaka, in Malaysia, the crossing itself was straightforward, but the buses fill up days – possibly weeks – in advance, so book early.

Verdict

Singapore was a pleasant surprise. Going in with low expectations, we came away with two really nice days, and it’s clear you could easily spend a week here if you wanted to dig deeper. Just come prepared for the heat – with or without kids, it’s the one thing that will dictate your rhythm.