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Ethiopian Roads

By on 30. December 2010 in Ethiopia
On the way to Shasheme Market, Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

On the way to Shasheme Market, Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

The roads in the Omo Valley are typical for thousands of kilometers of roads in rural Ethiopia. The vehicles, mainly 4WD and a few public busses drive on a bumpy dirt road that runs along a brand new road under construction. All stages of roadwork can be seen. To prevent cars from driving on the unfinished road mid-sized stones are placed on the sandy surface. There must be millions of these of these “blocking stones” – How many hours it took to put them there and remove them we will never be able to guess! Continue Reading →

Key Afar Market

By on 30. December 2010 in Ethiopia
Key Afar Market, Banna People, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Key Afar Market, Banna People, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

A long procession of Banna people marching towards Key Afar was the first indication that it was market day in this tiny village. As always women were almost crushed under incredible heavy loads of firewood, maize and other produce, while men gingerly walked their goats to be sold like a pet. Continue Reading →

The Mursi’s Love For Birr

By on 29. December 2010 in Ethiopia
The most distinctive of all ethnic groups in the Omo Valley: the Mursi, famous for the huge Lip Plates the women are sporting. Mago National Park, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

The most distinctive of all ethnic groups in the Omo Valley: the Mursi, famous for the huge Lip Plates the women are sporting. Mago National Park, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Only at the second village things took their course. The Mursi stormed towards us when we got out of the cars, pulled and tugged, displayed scars, lips with and without plates, Kalashnikovs – Nobody wanted to be overlooked. Continue Reading →

The Mursi – Lip Plates & Kalashnikovs

By on 28. December 2010 in Ethiopia
The most distinctive of all ethnic groups in the Omo Valley: the Mursi, famous for the huge Lip Plates the women are sporting. Mago National Park, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

The most distinctive of all ethnic groups in the Omo Valley: the Mursi, famous for the huge Lip Plates the women are sporting. Mago National Park, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

The most distinctive of all ethnic groups in the Omo Valley are the Mursi, famous for the huge Lip Plates the women are sporting. The bigger, the more beautiful… These disks made of wood or clay certainly are not comfortable to wear. So unless there is a special occasion women do without them. What is left then is a huge loop of shriveled lip dangling from the mouth, a rather irritating sight. Ear lobes are also stretched and scarification is highly desired, as with the Hamer. Continue Reading →

Downtown Jinka

By on 28. December 2010 in Ethiopia
Downtown Jinka - Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Downtown Jinka – Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Jinka itself is a good size town whose center is dominated by an old grassy airstrip. Nowadays only small, private chartered plane land amid the small wooden stalls. There are a few hotels, standards are modest. Basically all tourists eat at the same restaurant. Continue Reading →

Skillful Ari People

By on 28. December 2010 in Ethiopia
At the blacksmith - Ari Village, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

At the blacksmith – Ari Village, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Around the town of Jinka is Ari territory. The village we visited late afternoon was just lovely, well kept with lots of fruits trees and very green. Of course a local guide joined us onsite, who had brought along an assistant, who had brought a traditional skirt made from small twigs. Quickly this was wrapped around Heidi hips and masqueraded like this we walked around escorted by throngs of children. Continue Reading →

Dimeka’s hidden secrets

By on 27. December 2010 in Ethiopia
Dimeka Market, Hamer People, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Dimeka Market, Hamer People, near Jinka, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

There are not that many villages along the circular road that runs through the lower Omo Valley. Each of them, no matter how small, is exciting in its own way. Also Dimeka did not let us down. Continue Reading →

Bull – Jumping Ceremony

By on 27. December 2010 in Ethiopia
The "Jumper", Bull-Jumping Ceremony, Hamer People, near Turmi, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

The “Jumper”, Bull-Jumping Ceremony, Hamer People, near Turmi, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Rumors among the drivers spread quickly – a Bull – Jumping ceremony was taking place in the afternoon, near the dry river bed outside of the village. Matthew was all business, for no less than 25 US Dollars / 400 Birr per person, we could join, all photos included. This ceremony is so unique, only known in Hamer culture, that we swallowed hard and paid. Of course this included a guide, whose job it was to be at the very venue where Matthew took us. Basically he and Matthew were sharing the bounty. We wondered if any of this money would reach the family who was organizing and paying for this party. Continue Reading →

Questionable Hamer Traditions

By on 27. December 2010 in Ethiopia
Bull-Jumping Ceremony, Hamer People, near Turmi, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Bull-Jumping Ceremony, Hamer People, near Turmi, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

There was not much to buy on the market in Turmi, mainly grain. Nevertheless hundreds of Hamer milled around, shopping, haggling and chatting, not particularly concerned with the few tourists stumbling around. Continue Reading →

Dasanech People – Across The Omo River

By on 26. December 2010 in Ethiopia
Dasanech People, across the Omo River, near Omorate, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Dasanech People, across the Omo River, near Omorate, Lower Omo Valley, South Ethiopia

Once on the other side, the usual circus started. Everybody insisted to be photographed for 2 Birr. We truly mean everybody. Children were pulling our arms, legs, T-shirts, groups of girls were posing and elderly ladies simply shouted at us – the Arbore déjà vu… This time, hardened by our adventure in the Arbore village, we used our newly developed strategy. We picked the people that we wanted to photograph, but soon we were overwhelmed by the villagers big and small pleading for more photo-shooting. So much for our plan… Continue Reading →